For saving space and soil, this method also has several
other benefits, including no soil-borne diseases, no
weeds to pull and no soil to till, run-of-the-mill side
benefits of soil-less gardening.

Hydroponic Gardening Article

Hydroponics is basically a Greek word which associates the method of growing plants using nutrient solutions, without soil is known as hydroponics. Hydro means water and pono means labor.

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Experiment 2: Nutrient Levels.

You will need to prepare the three nutrient solutions for this experiment. The first solution is a pre-mixed nutrient solutions or the standard solution previously listed. Use twice the recommended amounts of nutrients in the second solution. For the third solution, use one-half the recommended amounts of nutrients. You will probably not want to prepare 25 gallons of each solution. The amounts of salts and water may be reduced by one-half, one-fourth, or even more, as long as you mix the proper proportion of ingredients for each of the three solutions.


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Be sure to grow the same kind of plant in each container so that you can compare results between the plants. If you transplant into these containers, choose plants that are uniform in size. By varying the nutrient and pH levels and observing the effects of these changes upon the plants, you can determine the proper pH and nutrient levels for a particular plant.


Experiment 1: pH Levels.

Use the nutrient solution shown in the tables or a solution prepared from commercial pre-mixed nutrients. Adjust the pH of the solution to between 5.5 and 6.5.



Hydroponics Guide


Pour the solution into three containers. Do not change the pH of the solution in the first container. This solution is the "check" or "control." Lower the pH of the solution in the second container to below 4.0 by adding dilute sulfuric acid. Raise the pH of the solution in the third container to 8.0 or above by adding a dilute sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solution. Test the pH of the solutions with an indicator.

The following plants do well at a pH range between 5.5 and 7.0; carrot, coleus, cucumber, geranium, orange, pepper, petunia, strawberry, turnip, and violet. Grow a plant from this list in each of the three solutions. Choose only one kind of plant (pepper, for example), and be sure the plants are about the same size. If you use seeds, plant them all at the same time.

Notice the differences in growth between the plants in the three solutions. You may want to set up various pH ranges to find the best pH in which to grow a particular plant.

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SYMPTOMS OF PLANT-NUTRIENT DEFICIENCIES

Plants will usually display definite deficiencies if the nutrients are not present in adequate amounts. The following symptoms may occur if the level of one mineral nutrient is not high enough to be within the range needed for best plant growth.


Hydroponics Guide

There may be several reasons other than a nutrient deficiency why a plant will display a definite symptom. But if one of the deficiency symptoms occurs, a lack of the proper nutrient may be suspected, and the amount of that nutrient increased.

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EXPERIMENTS FOR YOU TO TRY

Many interesting experiments can be performed with soilless culture. Two experiments, the first dealing with pH levels, and the second with nutrient materials, are outlined below. You may want to work out variations of these experiments or try others of your own.

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Mixed Chemicals

Pre-Mixed Chemicals.
The chemicals needed for hydroponic plant growth are now being mixed in the correct proportions. These mixtures may be obtained through catalogs, or from garden-supply stores and reputable fertilizer suppliers. They are relatively inexpensive, and small quantities will go a long way in growing plants. Follow the directions on the container.

Self-Mixed Chemicals.
You may want to prepare your own nutrient solution. The nutrient solution given below was worked out by the late Dr. D. R. Hoagland of the University of California. This solution supplies the major elements required for plant growth. It is easy to prepare, and usually gives satisfactory results.


Home made Hydroponics

Zinc sulfate and copper sulfate usually do not need to be added because of their presence as impurities in the water and in the other chemical compounds used in making up a nutrient solution. If you use the water-culture method of growing plants, it may be necessary to add the iron solution once or twice a week. You may want to use the chelated form of iron, since this form will not readily precipitate out of the solution. Mix one and one-half ounces of NaFe EEDTA 13 percent Fe2 O3 in 5 quarts of water.

Use one-fourth pint of this solution in 25 gallons of water. Other sources of nutrients may be substituted for those in the tables as long as they furnish the mineral nutrients needed by the plants. The toxic effects of some chemicals upon plant growth must always be considered when making substitutions.

After all of the chemicals have been mixed into the solution, check the pH (acidity or alkalinity) of the solution on a pH scale. The pH scale runs from 0 to 14. Any solution below 7.0 is acid, and any solution above 7.0 is basic or alkaline. A pH of 7.0 is neutral.

Plants that do well at a low pH (between 4.5 and 5.5) include azaleas, buttercups, gardenias, and roses. Plants that will grow at a pH level between 7.0 and 7.5 include potatoes, zinnias, pumpkins, and myrtle. Usually plants will not grow with any success in solutions below a pH of 4.0 or above a pH of 8.0. For most plants, the solution should be slightly acid within a range of 5.5 to 6.5.

Use an indicator or pH tester to determine the pH of the solution. Indicator papers register pH within different ranges. When dipped into the solution, the paper will change color at different pH levels. There are other devices for determining pH, and testing kits may be obtained from scientific and chemical supply houses.

If the pH is above the desired range, it can be brought down by adding dilute sulfuric acid. Add the acid in very small quantities, stirring the solution at the same time. An eye dropper is useful for this purpose. Count the drops. After a few drops have been added, retest the solution.

Continue adding acid and retesting until the solution reaches the desired pH range. If you count the drops of acid, you can put the same number of drops into the solution each time the solution is made up. You will not need to make further pH tests as long as the water and chemicals of the solution remain unchanged.

PREPARING THE NUTRIENT SOLUTION

For proper growth, plants must be supplied with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, boron, zinc, copper, molybdenum, and chlorine. Within certain limits of composition and total concentrations, there can be a rather wide range in the nutrient solutions suitable for plant growth. Usually the small amount of minerals in the water supply can be ignored. When nutrients are deficient or present in excess in the solution, however, the plants will suffer. For this reason, you must be careful in selecting and adding the minerals that go into the nutrient solution.


Hydroponics Guide

Purity of the nutrient materials or chemicals is important in preparing a solution. In some cases, the fertilizer grade of a chemical may be used, and in other cases, a technical-grade or food-grade chemical may be needed. The best grades have few impurities; the lower or fertilizer grades may have more. Sometimes the plants may use the impurities. Because of the low price of the fertilizer-grade chemicals, they should be used whenever possible.

Many formulas have been devised for supplying the nutrient requirements for plant growth. Most of these recommendations will give satisfactory results, but they often require less than one gram of chemicals that are not easy to obtain.

Paint the storage vats and containers used for the nutrient solution to prevent exposure to light, and close the vats and containers to prevent contact with the air. Evaporation of the solution, whether through the atmosphere or through plants, reduces the amount of water and increases the proportion of salt in the solution. Too much salt may be detrimental to the plants.

Do not use ...

Do not use the nutrient solution more than two weeks. If the solution is used for longer periods, it will probably build up salts or fertilizer residues that will damage the plants.

Seedlings or rooted cuttings may be used in this system. The aggregate material should be flooded and the solution drained off before planting. This will leave a well-packed, moist seedbed.



Hydroponics Guide

Seeds may be planted directly in the aggregate material. Do not plant too deep. Flood or sprinkle the tank with water frequently to prevent the aggregate material from drying out at the surface. If this happens, small seedlings may die. A few days after the seedlings have germinated, start using nutrient solution.

The safest way to get the plants established is by transplanting the seedlings from a germination bed. The seed should be germinated in a medium that is free of soil. Soil on the roots may cause them to rot, and may also cause trouble by getting into the nutrient solution.

More Materials

Aeration is much easier in aggregate culture than in water-culture system. Draining and refilling the tank with nutrient solution causes air to move in and out of the aggregate material, thus supplying adequate oxygen to the roots.

Water Supply. Water requirements for this system are the same as those for the solution-culture methods. The mineral nutrients and the minerals present in the water as impurities accumulate in the aggregate materials as a result of evaporation. To overcome this accumulation of minerals, flood the aggregate material with water every two weeks. Drain off the water to wash out the minerals.

Applying Nutrient Solution. The "slop" or surface method is the simplest for adding the nutrient solution. In this method, the solution is poured over the aggregates by hand. A manual gravity-feed system with buckets or other vats and small growing containers may be used. The vat is attached to the bottom of the tank or container with a flexible hose, and is raised to flood the tank and lowered to drain it. The vat may be lowered and raised by hand or by means of a mechanical device. The vat should be covered to prevent evaporation and filled with new nutrient solution at least once every two weeks.


Hydroponics Guide

The gravity drip-feed system also works satisfactorily, and reduces the amount of labor. The vat is higher than the tank in this system, and the solution drips from the vat just fast enough to keep the aggregate moist.

A pump can be used to raise the solution to the desired depth for sub-irrigation. Sub-irrigation is a system of supplying the nutrients by raising and lowering the solution level from the bottom. The solution must be raised to a higher level for younger plants than for older plants. A timer may be arranged on the pumping system so that the nutrient solution can be added whenever necessary. If the pump is not a non-rusting pump, it should be washed carefully after each use to prevent rusting. This mechanical system for adding the nutrient solution is practical only for a large setup.

The nutrient material must be added and drained or raised and lowered in the tanks once or twice a day. When the weather is especially hot and dry, the aggregate material may need more than two drenchings. Examine the aggregate material frequently to be sure that it has not dried out around the roots. After a few examinations, you will know about when the nutrient solution should be added. Remember - frequent drenchings will cause little harm, and permanent injury may result if the plant roots dry out.

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Materials and Equipment

The tank or container should be watertight to conserve the nutrient solution. Construction materials will depend upon the size of tank or container. Large tanks can be built of wood, asphalt paper, concrete, or metal. The wood should be free of knots, and cracks should be sealed against leakage with asphalt. Asphalt paper can be used with wood framing to make a workable tank. A metal tank should be painted on the inside with an asphalt-base paint.

Metal, earthen, and glass containers can be used quite successfully for a small-scale operation. Ground beds, flower pots, baskets, and even bean hampers have been used in aggregate culture. Since they are not watertight, however, some of the solution is lost. Metal containers should be painted on the inside with an asphalt paint, and glass containers should be painted on the outside with a dark-colored paint.

The aggregate material may differ greatly in composition. Well-washed silica sand makes one of the better materials. But any sand, preferably of coarse texture, that does not contain lime may be used. Sand is a desirable medium because of its ability to hold moisture, and because plants may be easily transplanted to it. A mixture of sand and gravel makes a very good medium if the sand or gravel does not contain much lime. Well-washed cinders may be used, provided that they are not high in toxic materials. Other materials such as peat moss, vermiculite, wood shavings, etc. are also satisfactory. You can obtain aggregate materials from local lumber yards, garden centers, or garden-supply houses.

from: http://plantanswers.tamu.edu

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